KENYA
Nairobi
Enjoyed visiting local places in Nairobi for 2 days before starting our Kenya safari tour.
Bomas of Kenya - we saw dances from different villages of Kenya mainly performed during harvest, marriages and other celebrations. Some had accompanying percussion instruments. The last acrobatic show was also amazing. After the show we walked around the area and saw traditional tribal huts from different regions of Kenya
Kobe Tough founded during Covid to help provide employment for women. They make ceramic beads and use them in making many different crafts.
BAPS Shayona where we enjoyed a nice vegetarian meal.
Our visit to Kiambethu tea farm the next morning was truly amazing. The serene atmosphere, beautiful gardens and tea farm along with a detailed narration from Fiona whose family has owned the farm for generations was lovely. Finally the lunch prepared from fresh produce grown in the farm was delicious.
We ended the day visiting the Swami Narayan temple. It is the largest Hindu temple in Africa and has a beautiful exhibition hall.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AT2XZgGLV6B5SrAk7
Karen Blixen camp
We began our journey from Nairobi after having breakfast. Along the way, we made a stop at the Rift Valley viewpoint. The drive to reach the Karen Blixen camp in Mara North Conservancy took nearly 5 hours, with the last leg of the journey being on an unpaved road. We traveled in a Land Cruiser and had the pleasure of the company of our guide and driver, Bonaya.
The view of the Mara River from the lodge was stunning, with numerous hippos submerged in the water. We also spotted impala, topi, and gazelle drinking from the river, while giraffes grazed in the distance. Lunch was a delightful experience, enjoyed at an outdoor table overlooking the river. After lunch, we spoke to the chef who kindly offered to prepare an Indian vegetarian meal for us that evening.
As there was no protective fence around, and animals could potentially visit at night, we were given keychain bells to request staff to accompany us if we needed to leave our tents after dark. The sound of hippos bellowing in the night was a unique experience.
The camp had 22 tents, each spacious and equipped with an outdoor veranda, a large bedroom, a bathroom, and an outdoor shower. The lights and hot water were powered by solar energy with a backup generator.
During our stay, we had the opportunity to participate in an Eco-walk with Benedict, the project coordinator at the camp. He showcased the camp's commitment to eco-friendliness, explaining their use of green technologies such as solar panels, a non-power cold room with charcoal lining for refrigeration, solar water heaters and a zero-waste sewage system.
Benedict also shared insights into various projects funded by the Karen Blixen Camp Trust, including the "Adopt a Tree" project, a Chef Residential School for local students that helps them secure good jobs, an IT School, a Masai Mara Craft Workshop run by local Masai women, an Auto Garage for servicing and repairing vehicles, and initiatives to provide clean water to locals, ensuring they don't have to rely on a river infested with crocodiles.
Masai Mara
During our safari, we enjoyed game drives in both the Mara North conservancy and the Mara Triangle and Reserve. While the Mara Triangle and Reserve typically require returning to the lodge by 7 PM, the Mara North Conservancy allowed us to explore the evening and night with off-road driving permitted. We were accompanied by a knowledgeable spotter named Kennedy from the Karen Blixen lodge, who helped us spot a wide range of animals, including lions feeding on a buffalo, jackals patiently waiting for the lions to leave, hyenas, Thompson gazelle, topi, wildebeests, dik-dik, eland, spring African hare, white-tailed mongoose, and hyenas during the night.
During morning drives, we encountered elephants, maasai giraffes, zebras, impalas, warthogs, and African buffaloes. In the Mara Reserve, we were fortunate to observe a cheetah with cubs and another cheetah resting under a tree. A particularly rare and thrilling experience was witnessing a leopard perched atop a tree, seeking refuge from pursuing lions waiting below in the shade. We learned about the social behavior of lions, their tendency to form prides, and their territorial nature. On one occasion, a lion approached our vehicle, crossed the road, and walked ahead of us for some distance.
Masai Mara Safari Lodge and Mara Birds
During our stay at Mara Serena Safari Lodge in the Mara Triangle, which is a part of the larger Maasai Mara National Reserve, we enjoyed views of the Mara River. The lodge offered unique beverages like hibiscus and tamarind juice.
We were fortunate to witness a herd of elephants from our room in the morning and were treated to a beautiful sunrise from our patio. During our game drives in the reserve, we encountered numerous termite mounds, which serve as a food source for animals like mongooses and anteaters. The reserve was characterized by vast grasslands with sparse trees, featuring delicate white tissue paper flowers and thorny Whistling Acacia trees with large black seeds. Controlled burning of dry grass was explained as a practice to promote new grass growth for the animals.
We also went close to the Tanzania-Kenya border, where the Tanzanian side is known as the Serengeti. Interestingly, while humans aren't allowed to cross the border in the reserve, animals move freely between the two regions. A cellphone tower camouflaged as a tree was spotted in the Mara Reserve.
Our adventures also included the joy of witnessing a beautiful rainbow during one of our drives and observing various bird species such as the greater blue-eared starling, African hoopoe, superb starlings, crowned plovers, wattled plovers, marabou storks, African fish eagle, ostrich, guinea fowls, and vultures.
Lake Nakuru
During our visit to Lake Nakuru, one of the Rift Valley Lakes, we learned that it used to be home to a large population of flamingos. However, in 2013, rising water levels led the flamingos to migrate to Lake Bogoria in search of food. We stayed at Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge within Lake Nakuru National Park, where they fed birds in the mornings, providing us with the opportunity to observe a variety of bird species. The lodge's chef, Oscar, was accommodating and prepared Indian meals for us.
During our game drives, we encountered baboons and vervet monkeys, as well as the Rothschild's giraffe and Maasai giraffe. Other wildlife sightings included impalas, zebras, and Red-billed oxpeckers on the zebras. The picturesque view of the lake with its abundant birdlife, including pelicans and flamingos, was captivating. We also saw a lot of greenish yellow fever trees in the park. These trees are named for their tendency to grow in swampy areas, attracting mosquitoes.
Our guide and driver, Bonaya, demonstrated extensive knowledge of wildlife including birds, and his keen eyesight helped us spot a distant leopard perched in a tree. We were fortunate to observe a white rhinoceros, both a mother and her baby, during one of our game drives. Before leaving the park, we also had the opportunity to see the Makalia waterfalls, adding to our memorable experience at Lake Nakuru.
Lake Naivasha and Hell's Gate
During our trip to Lake Naivasha, which is part of the Great Rift Valley, we observed Lake Elmenteita and many canola plants along the way. Our accommodation was at Sopa Lodge, surrounded by desert plants and home to black and white colobus monkeys. Initially, we had planned to visit Crescent Island in the evening, but due to our late arrival, we opted for a boat tour around the lake, catching a glimpse of Crescent Island and some animals on it from the water.
The following morning, we enjoyed cycling and walking in Hell's Gate National Park, also located in the Great Rift Valley. The park derives its name from a narrow break in the cliffs that resembles a gate leading to a gorge. We rented bicycles just before the park entrance, and an employee delivered them to us on his motorcycle. During our 8 km ride, most of which was downhill, our guide Joseph joined us and provided explanations along the way. We encountered various animals, including gazelles, elands, Coke's hartebeests, zebras, giraffes, and numerous buffalos. Some buffalos were so close to the road that Joseph had to chase them away before we could pass, as African buffalos can be dangerous. Along the route, Joseph pointed out Mount Longonop, formed by volcanic eruptions. Many white rocks were spotted, attributed to vultures' droppings that inhabit the area.Upon reaching the ranger station, we left our bicycles and walked down to explore the gorge. Joseph introduced us to a plant called leleshwa used by natives as a natural deodorant. Further into our journey, we climbed through challenging gaps to reach the hot springs' waters and eventually climbed higher to see the Pride Rock cliff, which served as inspiration for the movie "The Lion King." Instead of retracing our steps, our driver Bonaya picked us up near a local gift shop, and on the way, we passed by a geothermal plant responsible for generating over 30% of Kenya's power.
Amboseli National Park
Amboseli National Park, known for its elephant sightings against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, offers a unique experience. The name "Amboseli" originates from the Maasai term for "salty dust." During our visit, we encountered dust devils due to strong winds, but rain overnight settled the dust. Our accommodation at Oltukai Lodge within the park was comfortable, offering vegetarian food options and campfire evenings with local Maasai dances. We enjoyed the beautiful sunsets and full moon.
The park's highlight was observing herds of elephants grazing in the swamp, often hosting small white birds called cattle egrets on their backs. These elephants washed their grass in water before consumption when it was muddy and dusted it off when water was unavailable. Climbing Observation Hill, we enjoyed views of wildlife and glimpses of Mount Kilimanjaro's peak, despite occasional clouds. We also witnessed baboons digging in the soil for seeds and roots. Additionally, we spotted hyena dens during our drives around the park.
Amboseli Birds
During our visit to Amboseli National Park, we also enjoyed the diverse birdlife. Our knowledgeable guide, Bonaya, patiently stopped whenever we spotted a bird and shared valuable insights, consulting the "Birds of Kenya and Northern Tanzania" book when needed.
The park's ecosystem is nourished by Mount Kilimanjaro's meltwater, creating a year-round water source that attracts a wide variety of birds and animals. Some birds, like the Sand grouse, blended seamlessly with their sandy surroundings, making them challenging to spot. The Secretary bird, a bird of prey was particularly interesting. One theory is that it's name is because it resembles the 19th century secretary with a quill pen behind the ear while another theory is that it traces back to "saqr-et-tair" in Arabic, meaning 'hunter bird'.
Our bird-watching adventure also introduced us to two types of flamingos: the lesser and greater flamingos. The lesser flamingo, smaller in size with deep pink plumage, contrasted with the larger, paler greater flamingo with pinkish-white plumage. We enjoyed listening to numerous bird calls and were surprised to encounter vultures accompanied by a tawny eagle.
We encountered a variety of bird species, including the colorful African Jacana, White-faced whistling duck, Sacred and Glossy ibis, Hadada ibis, Sand grouse, Spur-winged geese, Blacksmith plovers, White-fronted plovers, Long-toed plovers, Spur-winged plovers, African pipits, Fischer's sparrow-larks, Pied kingfishers, Kori bustards, Pintail and Jack snipe, Tawny and African fish eagles, Squacco Heron, African spoonbill, Cattle egret, Grey crowned crane, Egyptian geese, Pied avocet, Goliath heron, Red-knobbed coot, Mosque swallow, Great white pelicans, and various vultures, including Ruppell's griffon vulture. We also saw both male and female ostriches and the greater and lesser flamingos.
Masaai Village
On our journey back from Amboseli to Nairobi, we had a memorable stop at a Maasai village. Welcomed by the chief's son, we were treated to a traditional dance where men showcased their incredible jumping skills. We also met the village's medicine man, who shared his knowledge of herbal remedies. Witnessing their daily rituals, including fire starting with local items, gave us insight into their way of life.
As we toured the village, we observed houses constructed from mud and cow dung, and learned that there was no access to water or electricity. We also visited a local school, where children under 8 years old learned to read and write before attending public schools. The Maasai practice polygamy, and we were amazed to hear that the chief had 8 wives and 48 children. Traditionally, men tended to cattle while women handled housework.
Reflecting on the simplicity and contentment of the people we met, we appreciated the Swahili phrases we learned, like "Jambo" for hello, "Asante" for thank you, and the delightful "Hakuna matata," which translates to "no trouble" or "no worries."
On our flight back, we watched "The Lion King" and found ourselves better able to relate to the Swahili phrases and the animals we had encountered during our safari. Our trip to Kenya was truly unforgettable, filled with remarkable experiences and cherished memories.
